"Thy fate is the common fate
of all; Into each life some rain must fall"
H.W. Longfellow (1807-1882-9)
Well, what a funny old month this has been, weather wise. The long awaited rainy season has continued to play ‘catch-up’ and has done it’s honest best to make up for the prolonged dry spell that started back in March. It has been so dry for so long that the rain has actually been very welcome to us! It has settled the dust and created a bright, clear autumnal visibility to our vista and has, of course, topped up the region’s water reserves. The rural landscape has taken on rich green hues of unprecedented vibrancy. When one views from a distance the rows of golden grapevines, side on against the bright green underlay, the image to the eye is almost an effect of corduroy to the steps of the valley terraces below. Add to this crystal blue skies, a crisp, clear horizon and a temperature of 18ºC, and I can’t think of anywhere better to be on New Year’s Eve! We enjoyed a paseo (promenade) along the Arenal waterfront at Javea, yesterday and were not too surprised to see folk sunbathing and swimming in the sea. This is our fifth year of permanent residence here, but we still cannot take this kind of scene for granted.
Thankfully, the Spaniards don’t really start to prepare for Christmas until late November. The festive street lighting displays are erected in early December & the local yuletide zeal dictates that these impressively ornate illuminated displays can often obscure the motorist’s view of traffic lights – tranquilo, this is Spain! Christmas trees and fairy lights etc seem to have been introduced to the locals by us ‘Extranjeros’. Not too many years ago Christmas decorations to the Spaniards meant a nativity scene (There is actually, a museum for them in Alicante) these could be (and still are) grand affairs. Each home has one, along with shops, businesses and of course, churches. In Javea, beside the main church, a huge nativity scene is constructed each December. I’ve tried to capture the scale & detail of this (see photos), with only limited success I’m afraid.
The local Christmas proper kicked off on 22nd Dec. with ‘El Gordo’ (The fat one), the Grand Lotto Christmas Draw. This is an obscenely large prize and tickets are usually bought in batches by groups of friends, clubs or whole villages, and the prizes divided. 24th Dec. (Nochebuena) is an important evening family gathering. No established traditional menu, as such but typically: Prawns & shellfish, followed by roast lamb with red cabbage (sautéed in olive oil & garlic). Dessert is always an assortment of Turron (A traditional sweet of many variants from Jijona, north of Alicante, made from local almonds and honey etc). 25th Dec. (Dia de Navidad) Often a normal working day. No gifts are usually exchanged, but this is an important family gathering for evening dinner. The menu is chosen by Madre though it will usually begin with shellfish & end with a Turron extravaganza. 28th Dec. (Dia de los Santos Inocents) this is actually Spain’s fools day (Gastar Bromas) and foolish tricks are played. 31st Dec. (Nochevieja – lit. Old Night), typically spent with family & close friends and, traditionally red underwear would be worn (please don’t ask!). More festive feasting culminates in the traditional swallowing of a dozen grapes (sold in cans – seeded and peeled for this specific occasion), each on the chimes at midnight, for good fortune for each of the coming months.
I close this journal by reassuring my readership that wonderful warm & sunny weather has returned to these shores! We mostly ignored Spain’s traditions for our own, & and enjoyed the full ‘Christmas Monty’. Linda had made our Christmas puds. and cake, we were able to buy our Turkey, Gammon & just about all else we cold require locally (except for fresh cranberries which a friend kindly brought from the UK!). We were able to punctuate our feasting with some fine coastal & countryside walks here, and it was good to see folk back on the beaches once more.
Chris Garwood
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2007
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September
2008
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